Most men buy shirts with sleeves that are too short, and jackets
with sleeves that are too long. As a result, their shirt cuffs
are hidden by their jacket sleeves, creating the impression that
they are wearing short-sleeved shirts.
If the shirt and jacket have sleeves of the correct lengths at
least a half inch (1cm) of the shirt cuff will show.
Many men buy shirts with sleeves that are too short.
When the sleeves are the right length the cuff covers the wrist
and reaches just to the root of the thumb. The sleeve must be
long enough to fit well even when the arm is bent, and not just
when the hand is hanging down vertically. The cuff should be tight
enough to stop it from slipping too far down the hand.
The shirt collar must be of such a size that the necktie knot
does not lift the tips of the collar away from the shirt breast.
The collar tips must stay on the breast of the shirt, even when
you turn your head.
The tips of a well-cut collar touch the breast of the shirt and
will not lift up when you move you head. The collars of really
good shirts are always cut large enough to fit well, regardless
of whether fashion dictates wide or narrow collars. Someone who
insists on buying small, narrow collars should not wear heavy
The shirt collar must be cut so that the knot sits exactly in
the middle of the upper part of the triangle and does not slip
The knot of the necktie must sit exactly in the triangle between
the two sides of the collar and stay there. Many men have a habit
of not only leaving this button open, but of not even pulling
the necktie tight.
The shirt collar is too narrow if it is covered at the back of
the neck by a well-cut jacket collar. Unfortunately, many manufacturers
follow fashion blindly when it comes to the width of the shirt
collar. This is particularly important because the necktie can
often be seen at the back of the neck if the collar is too narrow,
something that is definitely to be avoided.
The shirt collar will not be covered by the jacket at the back
of the neck if it is the right width, provided the jacket is well
If the outer edge of the shirt collar is not covered by the lapel,
the collar is usually not cut perfectly.
The outer edge of the collar and its tips should just be covered
by the lapel of the jacket. Only in this way is perfect harmony
created between the lines of the shirt collar, the necktie, and
the lapel which encloses them. The cutaway collar generally looks
elegant because its outer edge is always covered by the lapel,
even if the jacket is less well cut.